Well today after a fair bit of head scratching and looking at about 5 different diagrams I got the bike turning over both on the direct start button and the key! It took me about 3 hrs but I needed to be sure having not done this before and didn't want to mess something up that could be costly!.
Lessons learnt, take your time check, double check then make sure you've checked! I had kept the original ignition circuit as it seemed to make sense it was a little complicated because the wiring colours were as per usual not as the OEM diagram! but by keeping the regulator, starter and alternator wiring which was already wrapped with a strong covering complete with plugs etc seemed to make sense. I made two new battery terminal leads as the OEM were both black positive having a bit of red tape to denote positive. So I went for a length of red covered lead for the positive, no mistaking it is live, and used the same red (old black one had had it, having just moaned about OEM!) but I had some black plastic spiral binding cable cover left over from previous "mods" but it definitely is negative with a little red showing through!
Having wired it all into place temporarily with longer wire than needed (in case of cock ups or mods needed) I tried the direct start then the switch all turned over nicely and left it all attached for 30 mins no hot wiring or smoking so I guess all is well.
I will check all is in the right place one more time, as in the charging system all looks right and power is where it is needed. Then shorten wires where needed and fix permanently run a live wire to the fuses for lights, indicators, horn etc. and add the Hi4 ignition to live wire in the VOES and thats the main part finished. Hopefully in the next few days! The Crane Hi4 is a dream for the amateur, plug and play as near as damn it, wire to live, 3 to the coil, VOES and tacho if used done, simplicity to tune the engine as well, with the aid of a small led light.
I have run the bike without the VOES the past year and on "race" setting. There are arguments that go on deep into the night over the VOES and whether its use is relevant or not. The main reason for putting it back in the system is I have not been able to get the tuning quite right with the S&S super E, and much research has been done to get an answer. However, a good few people seem to think that you will get a slightly better fuel consumption and smoother running in the tuning department. So until I can get the bike into a tuning station I have switched the Hi4 to VOES upped the rev limit a little to about 6k and will see what happens! The fuel consumption will be a bonus as my new tank only holds 2 gallon! and with a rigid rear end I don't expect to be riding at a ton that often!
Well after sodding around with the VOES and the thing not starting once it was fitted properly took it off returned to race setting fired up first time!
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